Slow travel notes — small towns, coastal walks and what people cook in each season.
The regional train from Porto follows the river almost the whole way to Pinhão. We got off at every second stop, walked between quintas and ate whatever the café near the station had that morning. Late October is quiet: the harvest is done, the light is soft and rooms cost half of what they do in August.
Bring proper shoes — the terraces are steep and the paths between villages are mostly old stone steps.
Between Camogli and Sestri Levante the trails stay open all year, and in early autumn the water is still warm enough for a swim. Focaccia is best before nine; after that the bakeries sell out and switch to farinata.
Local buses from Chania reach most of the southern coast, and the gorges connect the villages if you are willing to walk a few hours. We stayed in family rooms above tavernas and learned that "a small portion" is not a phrase anyone here takes seriously.
We are two people who prefer trains, buses and walking to rental cars and tours. These are notes for friends who keep asking where we went and what was worth it. New trips are added when we get back and find the time to write.